Wiper & True Taproom

I’m ashamed of how long it’s taken to visit the new Wiper and True Taproom - is it even possible to call it ‘new’ anymore? The taproom opened its doors at the Old Market site, four months ago in July 2022. Whilst the brewery tap at St Werburghs is still accepting patrons, this second site in the east of the city signifies grander ambition and marks an exciting new chapter for the Bristolian brewery.

In keeping with the genre, the Old Market taproom is unsurprisingly located in an industrial park, but W&T have gone far beyond placing a few trestle tables in a loading bay. In the last few years the game has moved on, with the likes of Left Handed Giant and Deya creating slick, design-focused drinking environments. W&T may well have been driven to invest so heavily in the spirit of ‘keeping up with the Joneses’, but they have brought a unique and purposeful bespoke aesthetic to their space that reinforces the sophistication of the brand.

Arriving on a sunny Saturday afternoon, the taproom is predictably busy. Cycling is encouraged; the numerous racks have been exhausted and visitors have chained their bikes to the metal railings on the road. The former parking bays at the front of the unit have been fenced off to traffic and metal edged planters punctuate the block paving. The landscaped greenery breaks up large communal benches filled with drinkers enjoying the late afternoon sun. A large tipi-style marquee provides shade to those tucking into either dumplings and gyoza from eatchu’s food truck, or gorgeously vibrant Indian street food from Gopal’s curry shack.

Moving inside to the bar, of the keg taps which span its length, roughly half are dedicated to W&T’s own brews. If you’re a fan of the core range you’re in luck - there’s a great variety of styles; everything from lager (York Street Helles) to Stout (Milkshake). I was disappointed not to see any special brews on offer; there wasn’t anything on tap that was unique to this location. Finally, two cask offerings bolster the range; Left Handed Giant's Dawn Chorus, and W&T’s Kaleidoscope - the latter of which also featured on keg, perhaps for those keen on dispense method exploration.

The interior design by Studio B is crisp and airy. The lofty space is dominated by lush planting which helps to link the bar to the outside. The green theme is followed through into the emerald titles, subtly echoing a Victorian pub facade. The tactile furnishing is formed of simple metal and wood palette, and is pleasantly detailed. An entire glass back wall allows visitors to spectate on brewers at work, although the gleaming stainless steel was unattended on this visit. The taproom’s fresh aesthetic compliments the current season, although I will be interested to see how the vast space will fare as the seasons change and the evenings begin to draw in.

Overall, Wiper & True have played a blinder with their Old Market Taproom. The space they have created will have a wide appeal, whether you want to catch up with old friends or have an afternoon out with the family, all accompanied by great beer of course. It won’t be long until the next visit, that’s for sure.

If you’d like to read more about Wiper and True, we talked to Michael Wiper back in the Bristol issue - Volume 06. We also discussed design with Studio Makgill, the creative force behind the brand in Volume 10.